Waiting for tea in a restaurant north of Jomsom.

I met Bishnu in Pokhara, at a mountaineering shop where I was renting a sleeping bag. I had planned to look for a guide after flying up to Jomsom. The shopkeeper insisted I instead fly his "cousin-brother" Bishnu up to Jomsom with me (Nepalis fly half-price on the several small local airlines.)

Bishnu carried my heavy bag up and down the mountain, translated, and patiently answered endless questions. Hiring him was the best decision I made.